restuarant review: cafe moto

cafe moto in williamsburg, brooklyn
artichoke with saffron aioli; mac & cheese with onion & homemade apple sauce; warm lentils with fig & walnut crouton & queso fresco; grilled donuts with cinnamon & sugar; warm date cake with toffee sauce & fresh cream

i'm a sucker for moto and it's primarily due to the atmosphere. with decor that looks like city of lost children meets brazil meets delicatessen, and a host of crooners that regularly serenade guests in a style reminiscent to the 20s, this place has something to look at in every corner (make sure you visit the bathroom too). the food is just an excuse to keep on looking, but it ain't half bad too.

i usually get the artichoke, a throwback to days when my mom used to prepare the cumbersome thistle. though she left out the saffron, it'll always be comfort food to me. speaking of comfort food, whose list of comfort foods does not include mac & cheese (and if it doesn't, it's time you revisit/rethink that list). moto's mac & cheese offering is completely satisfying, and the addition of applesauce (on the side) allows you to cool your palate between bites. the warm lentils don't offer much in the way of imagination, but they're also satisfying, and a far cry from the soupy split green pea. but if you're looking for a dish that'll fill you up, look elsewhere, or order a bunch of things.
if you like doughnuts (and who doesn't?) you'll like them even better when served grilled and topped with cinnamon & sugar. and, as the name implies, date cake is the perfect dessert for anyone on a date. or anyone dining alone for that matter. it's warm and sweet. so sweet that'll you'll probably feel better if you share it with someone, but don't be ashamed if you hog it all to yourself. it's that good.